Kinky, performance, normcore and craft. While those textiles sound rather odd in combination, their co-existing appeared to be harmonious and well-balanced and freshened-up the season’s runways. Underpinned by a lively palette of sophisticated pigments and juicy hues, designer’s textile choices themselves manifest the overarching feeling of rediscovery and liberation. While collections are freeing men from their gender bias from head to toe, creativity can flow into unknown spheres and discover an archive of womenswear textiles. The seasonal highlights dare to benefit from those new options and add a distinctly light fluidity to the layers of menswear silhouettes. Smoothness and delicacy are explored, highlighting terrycloth, sheers, openwork, silkies, fishnet or gently distressed surface as highlights for SS23. While those materials invite a supple lightness, menswear staples like grounding and sturdy  leather or denim, as well as engineered performance styles prevail and balance these new influences. Timeless solidity begins to mix with breezy lightweights and manifests a masculinity that is more inclusive and appropriate within the zeitgeist’s context.