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FW23: Textiles & Prints

Now, fabrics invite discretion while amplifying a subtle sense of extravagance.
The Livetrend Team has attended the leading Textile and Design Fairs in Milan and   in Paris to confirm the leading textile and design trends for FW23. While focusing on a dynamic range that conforms to mens- and womenswear markets, this report decodes all the necessary textile need-to-know for AW24.  Thematic stories are curated to offer you a seasonal overview and be a guide and source of inspiration for collections that align well with the needs of our zeitgeist. For next winter, rethinking the essentials will safeguard your collection’s success, as it introduces a boosting sense of identity to core ranges. Consequently, the next season will provide a wardrobe, that is full of textures and searching for originality on various spectrums. Looks will fuse into our surroundings or try to break free on purpose, so that consumer’s desire for individuality and innovation can explore new paths. 

Earthlings

A natural symbiosis. Nature has become an evermore crucial inspiration for the fashion industry over the previous seasons, since the lockdowns have forced people to reconnect with the planet and learn to appreciate the comfort that its surroundings have to offer. Inspiration is moving from previous outdoor activities like hiking to more unknown spheres, such as marshlands. The new setting will inform winter collections with a darker, subtly graded palette of swampy greens and pigmented browns. By taking a magnifying filter,  textiles develop an authentic representation of marshlands via a nuanced mix of dynamic textures and fluid color harmonies. Such a close-up perspective will surface camouflage styles that make us adapt even more to the world that we live in. Zooming in on earthy also looks at mineral cracks to update the current marbling trend with a sense of rural luxury. On the opposite, taking on a more distant view towards nature will propose other exciting prints. With an array of scenic photo and landscape depictions and seismic lines that take a birds-eye perspective, prints are revealing new structures and secrets to the successful nature-driven design narrative.

Marbled Cracks

Literal Landscape

Textured Marshland

Floral Camo

Seismic Web

Milano Unica Confirmations

Alchemist Elegance

Noble authenticity. An almost alchemist approach to textile design is lifting historic materials from their archival books by meeting them with intuition and natural sensibility. A look into the nocturnal world searches for new forms of  beauty that are hidden beyond the surface and the obvious. Clients are taken onto an unknown journey towards deeper meanings to reality and rediscovered ancient knowledge. Gothic influences shift medieval prints into a modern register and let a sense of ancestral illumination flow through designs while maintaining a rather romantic touch. The romanticism unleashes a skin-deep sensuality, displayed in soft and lustrous velvets or poetic XR prints of florals and bodies. Those glooming textiles take us to the flip side of known reality. For FW23, the prestige of romanticism clashes with exceptional imperfections. With an elegantly raw look,  authenticity lays bare materials and allows for grunge-anecdotes. Robust textiles clash with sheer to  unveil the raw truth of opposites that is deeply engrained in the play with darker mystery worlds.

XR Poesia

Ornamental

Impulsive Fancies

Velvet Indulgence

Medieval Flowers

Milano Unica Confirmations

Universal Folk

A culture that unites us. Consumers are increasingly stepping away from rather limiting traditions to allow a more inclusive, worldly sense of community to evolve. However, while people look towards a global culture, they do not defy their local heritage, but rather funnel its’ unique elements to contribute to a melting pot. A new universal culture, a new boho emerges that propose a wide range of ideas and knowledge to a wide audience and connect us globally. Various heritages are reinterpreted now: From ethnic patterns meeting modern quilting to eccentric stripes on new silhouettes, the neo culture look takes on a dimension, which is full of joy and positivity. Digital ikats freshen up winter assortments and augmented color ways for jacquards will add a fashionable influence to traditional bohemian looks. Hand-painted and up-cycling looks are re-working classical and traditional graphics and crafts for a contemporary hippie look. Such artsy vibrancy draws on craft and texture and is guiding materials that adapt to modern, nomadic ways of life.

Community Quilting

Digital Ikat

Authentic Stripes

Handpainted Paisley

Craft Jacquard

Milano Unica Confirmations

Oceanscape

Flowing through twilight. The gloomy appeal of the aquatic world is taking us into the unknown of the open water for FW23. The untamed appeal of oceans, with its turbulent waves, glistening reflections and hidden networks is laying bare a world of mystery and awe that appeals to the tastes of today’s consumers. The vast number of underwater water creatures informs prints that resemble skins of phantasmagoric fish via glossy and wet surfaces or otherworldly animal prints. Inspired by the dynamism of water, digital-looking prints give the illusion of fading waves and roaring streams. At the same time, floating and more dimensional textiles explore the random play within waters’ surfaces with tactile effects. Aquatic palettes mix with a metallic luster for an inspiring twilight look to set the tone for icey ocean themes. These stories of mermaids, that attract consumers through their sensual components linked to those water nymphs, results in extreme glitters and shine. The new, darkened spark will add fluid movements to next season and proposes a perfect option for festive dress.

Digital Aqua

Liquid Creases

Sleek Skins

Moonlight Mermaid

Floating Fabrics

Milano Unica Confirmations

New Traditionals

Essentials that are unique & different. Traditional styles provide us with a sense of perfect solidity. However, this next season is trying to integrate an overarching consumer tendency for bolder identity in order to add more complexity to timeless styles. Looks are allowed to break free now, letting classic checks take visually distorted paths or popping with dramatic colors for a more impromptu feel. A seasonal highlight are returning houndstooth patterns, which present themselves in unusual color-ways. They can appear as digitalized but remain the authentic familiar feel. While those layerings and torsions alter our visual perception of traditionals,  the second glance reveals a desire for authentic as well. Therefore, pure materials are regaining their stands. Corduroy is expanding its width to push a  look that screams retro to a more refined and sharper style, while 60s knitwear remains important and can be fused with a new digital touch. With fresh palettes those classics feel more relevant and future-proof. 

Make-belief Classics

Wide Corduroy 

Houndstooth Hybrids

Authenticity Wool

60s Knits

Milano Unica Confirmations

Cyber Dreams

Impeccable strength & intoxicating softness. Consumer are longing for mental well-being and healthful rest. Aside from their ability to recollect in nature, innovation and science offer us a digital universe for a more engineered, yet similarly effective sense of serenity and calm. Stepping into this futurist dreamland, clients are invited into a lighter and cleaner world, beyond or physical reality. Otherworldly, metallic powder effects lay themselves upon leathers and silkies and mix opulence with minimal sobriety. Utopia will reveal new rubbery materials with dry and jellied surface that can propel us into a balanced alternative world. Textiles provide enhance performance, like an anti-bacterial or isolating properties. Visually, intensified and airy quilting is leveling up the puffiness trend to a luxury level, while prints focus on micro-patterns or digital dye effects in pastel nuances. Despite the clean look, new micro-textures and honeycombs will soften-up basics and add an intentional level of depth to the season’s handles. 

Metallic Powders

Airy Luxuries

Dry Rubber

Solar Touch

Homey Honeycombs

Milano Unica Confirmations

Surreal Collage

Contemporary galleries. To reflect consumer’s sense of lavish inner luxury and rediscovered creativity, a collage-inspired design approach is refreshing currently trending DIY and artsy looks with a more surreal angle. No, textiles are seeking to mix unconventional ingredients for a more curated look. Singularity is guiding design and manifesting in eye-catching, museum-ready prints. From BW stamped-effects and modernist interpretations of geometrics, prints are drawing upon pop-art and bauhaus codes for references. Going even one step further, more clashing collages and digitally-layered floral prints are opting for a mash-up feel that evokes spontaneity and freedom. This freedom to be yourself looks at similarly fun and experimental material qualities, opting for terrycloth as an innovation for various categories.Toweling textiles will now extend its commercial scale and especially printed terrycloth can play with the retro texture that keeps consumers feeling youthful and cozy at the same time. 

BW Stamps

Layered Florals

Totally Terry

Modernist

Collage Effect

Milano Unica Confirmations

Première Vision AW23 Color Palette

Of cadence & decadence. For FW23, Premiere Vision is proposing a surprisingly light color range. The palette balances tonal depth and allows for color-ways that invite extravagance and introspection equally. The palette is ambiguously tender and draws upon hues from gastronomic universes. The taste-worthy appeal dwells into a savory and sweet universe equally: Egg yolk, fresh flesh and yellow-green propose a provocative sensuality and appeal to our taste to surprise for next season. At the same time, a strong focus on grays is replacing current beiges on the grounding spectrum. The new grays can be maximalist, feel essential or even opt for metallic pigments that create futuristic fashion looks. The mix of those grounding grays and juicy colors resonates a sense of utilitarian radicalism and seeks to shake-off well-behaved classics. A focus on color-combos is opening the door to alternative realities and experiences, while keeping consumer’s grounded in the presence of reality. 

On common grounds!

As seen above, FW23 textiles are heading into a rooted future. Ready for discoveries and awe, that remain far from frivolity and cliché. Impulsiveness calms down and consumers aim for more considered yet distinctly brave decisions. Make sure to consider the highlighted directions in combination with our seasonal macro trends  for FW23. Broadening horizons and transgressing previous conventions will demand your design team to think outside the box but present collections that fit the zeitgeist and resonate with consumers.

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Date:
13 July 2022
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#archive
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