Inspired by near and far. From a quantitative point of view, prints have decreased by -41% in visibility during FW23 fashion shows. A hint that suggests a desire to create long-lasting products, less influenced by trends. On the other hand, if print were featured they made sure to be the right ones in spirit of our zeitgeist. This FW23 Men’s Fashion Week takes prints to foreign and familiar destinations. From other dimensions to bucolic backyards and to the liberated university of the arts, visual storytelling seems more curated than ever this time. Some of the seasonal favorites that aim for other dimensions, include psychedelic patterns, surreal landscapes, cyber arts and imaginary monstrous depictions. On the contrary, the familiar home kept its influence as well: from paisley to cabin checks and liberty florals, a sophisticated yet comforting land house allure is guiding design here. Lastly, a new take on creativity is lifting all codes and proposing handmade collages, big fragmented brushstrokes and portraits for a distinct art-school feature.

Back to basics – Checks and Stripes are a perfect pattern for season-less products. On the runway this trend showed. Stripes were visible in more than 410 looks and grew by +53% proportionally across the pattern range. Plaids are up by +31%, with 279 looks, but are loosing -23% in overall visibility, due to the lower print range that was presented during the runway shows.

Floral prints are marking 178 looks this season, gaining +31% in visibility, even if they are globally decreasing by -23% compared to FW2022, due to the reduced number of printed styles that were featured this season. Jacquards and embroideries are taking a nostalgic allure and are inspired by tapestry and simple country flowers such as poppies. Other floral prints are more focused on big impressive flowers for a more visual effect, often interpreted in jacquard as well.

Messages, Logo and Badges have been quite popular over recent fashion shows. However, the ubiquitous understatement trend affects the presence of logos. Still with a strong visibility, logos were presented in 330 looks, declining compared to last winter and losing as much as -9%. While prints and embroidery with messages were detected in more than 130 looks, showing a growth of +12% compared to FW22. While having a smaller visibility, with about 60 looks, badges and letters are the motif which grew most: +901% compared to Winter 22. From preppy to sporty, these badged motifs are used as emblems that declare membership and companionship.

Among the motifs with more visibility this season, we cannot fail to mention animals. Earth, sky and sea provide inspiration for a bestiary range,  from stylized real-life creatures to the most fantastic worlds. As other creatures, cartoons and manga, have been seen in 117 looks and raise by +77% in visibility, other various monsters seemed to take over especially on tops, shirts, jackets and sweaters. Animal prints, on the other hand seem to arouse less interest for designers and decrease by -19% compared to fall winter 2022.

Nothing is what it seems. Optical effects win for yet another season. They interpret the uncertainty and brain fog of our difficult times via distortions of perception. The motifs that create most inspiration for menswear designers for FW23 are optical patterns, which are accounting for just under a hundred looks and a whooping +1134% growth. With the growing interest in everything around mushrooms, whether it be for new bio-based materials, but also for the psychotropic effects, new psychedelic patterns are set to take the place of tie&dye. On the other hand, tie-dye interpretation can be seen in those brushed over effects that are announcing a big magnitude in accessories and ready-to-wear, both for women and men.

Inspiration is drawn from nature in more mimetic interpenetrations to hide the man in it. What better reason than camouflage to express this concept by turning to a motif that has always been quite commercial for menswear. Whether it is a photographic adaptation that takes cues from autumnal woods and textures of leaves and barks, or in new stylized interpretations of the classic motif: Globally camouflage is growing 185% in visibility across the men’s fashion shows this winter season.

While we face a time of collective soul-searching, looking for timeless pieces and minimalism, people will always need to express their individuality and creativity. This artistic need for expression is becoming more and more popular for new generations who experiment and mix more digital and futuristic elements to their creative outbursts. Through surrealist compositions and true works of art, creativity is liberated and interpreted in various techniques from classical painting to street art. Yet, overall such artsy prints propose a niche pattern, increasing by +74% from FW22, perfect to highlight collections with strong products yet small quantities.

Photography, X-rays, portraits…in full or exaggerated scales seem to invent new modern and iconic patterns for menswear. Faces promise to be a commercial print trend and their visibility has increased by +74% , whether photographic or stylized in their depiction. Globally, photographic prints have increased by +5%, but here, the trend is certainly to revisit pictures digitally.