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FW23 Design Direction: Nocturnal Allure

Beautiful fears

Nocturnal themes are daring to see past the commonly known to explore our current fears and discover new beauty behind its dangerous facade. For womenswear the dark theme is accompanied by an overarching idea of mystified sensuality. For a narrative of night-street glam, glitz and couture elements are fusing. Harsher and streetwear-driven elements, like hoodies or belts, epitomes of masculine casual style, are contrasted with glitters and ruffle elements for an exciting new look. More stylized, minimal magicians will explore draping and layering within a magical context. Through mystifying veils, drapes and hoods, the unknown is literally translated and turning the wearer into an anonymous character. The dark and draped look will be resonating a modern witch-vibe. Dark desires will continue to fuel the trend for subversive and sexy styles, pushing towards more explicit desires and intimate phantasies. Straps and accessories are beginning to cover-up liberated lingerie silhouettes again. They conversely reveal less to tease more. Finally, another nocturnal design narrative will confront the circumstances of the recent crises and the subsequent question of death and of what comes after it. Memento mori connects to the endlessness of life and places symbols and prints of afterlife on veiled or second-skin silhouettes. The myth of death and its dangerous appeal will reveal dangerous liaisons of life and death and the in between.

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