Never like this winter nostalgia for the past has come to contaminate contemporary lines. Already Livetrend had identified clear historical references (see the clerical) in haute couture, and today this forecast is confirmed by ready-to-wear. Gucci has presented silhouettes with basket dresses, Alexander Mc Queen not only refers to shapes but also to historical motifs. Moschino shows a modern-day Marie Antoinette and Richard Quinn has created crinoline shapes for his Moncler collection. This desire for new, exaggerated volumes, inspired by the past, can even influence the king of streetwear, Vigil Abloh, who mixes anoraks with crinolines, with an unexpected effect. But it was Nicholas Guesquière for Louis Vuitton, who certainly knew how to make the right remix of history, culture and modernity to create inventive pieces and silhouettes.

The lingerie spirit continues to be in vogue even in the winter of 2020. Voile and transparent fabrics, bodies, bustier, bras, create a remixed boudoir atmosphere. Very sexy at Saint Laurent juxtaposed to vynil and posh worn with wool jackets. Very feminine at Dolce & Gabbana, worn under heavy knitwear or see-through as at Olivier Theyskens, Dior, Valentino e Fendi. Bustiers appear on display or half-hidden in the structure of dresses and coats.

An ode to the real client of prêt-à-porter? Rich, snobby, gorgeous, feminine, a little mysterious: the real lady. An icon that never ceases to inspire designers. The bourgeoisie with style wears tight coats, shawl necklines, skirt suit and Bermuda shorts. She loves pencil skirts, blouses with bow, furs and big hats. A style that seduces with sophistication and that is renewed thanks to Burberry, Fendi, Celine, Altuzarra, JW Anderson, Lanvin, just to name a few.

A youthful spirit, a bit of a schoolgirl, rather intellectual, is going to create a microtrend for the winter. Thanks to the Dior fashion show, in which Maria Grazia, with an autobiographical touch, represented herself in her youthful years, interest in this new teenager has opened up. Activist and committed, she mixes short skirts and shorts with college jackets, rugby stripes and tartans. She doesn’t deny a few vintage pieces taken from her mother’s or grandmother’s closet, and we can imagine a few pieces rented or bought on depop. Hats, caps, glasses and tie are the accessories worn by this girl who has walked the catwalks of Dior, Paul&Joe, Coach, Gucci, Versace and Thom Brown, to name but a few of the brands shown in the pictures.