” New traditions ” As denim re-emerges as a key item for more versatile and timeless wardrobes it appears as the icon of contemporary silhouettes again. Looks are build around denim pieces and see it as the focus rather than the usual reliable pair-down element to other styles. Full denim looks have mastered the heritage of the material in evermore effective ways, as seen across the last couture shows or Coachella. Recently, denim emerged as the underrated highlight.The denim industry is expected to reach a value of 60$ billion US dollars in 2022, according to PV Denim. A successful boost of creative and innovative investment is necessary to prepare for that growth potential. While a lot of environmental challenges remain a driver for textile innovation, new aesthetics are embedded in the market. One common driver is guiding all designs: dynamism and the desire to propose a new sensibility for the heritage of this material.  Below, you can find some inspiring design directions to inform your choices of color & finishing. Afterwards, you can study the must-haves for next season, to build successful assortments as you go. The data  shows the yearly INSTAGRAM GROWTH RATE.

Key Themes

Rebellious Spirits. Subcultures of the Millenial continue to inspire the denim category, maintaining a strong grip on younger and fashionable cohorts. The palette is mystic and dark, ranging from black to burgundy and purples. Dyes look washed out and experiment with over-dye or brushed flocking effects for a worn-out look. Bleached and faded elements allude to grunge and gothic heritage, while exaggerated roughness and messy finishings enhance the subversive and rebellious character of the theme. For a distinct glam-rock vamp moment, slightly shimmer surfaces and leather-like gloss resonate a club-ready feel. For this trend, super stretchy denims are important. They , ideal for body con and cut-out styles, are counteracting the comfort appeal of slouchy Y2K baggy fits.

Woodlands. Nature remains a driving force for AW23/24. A special highlight is proposed by natural dyes that take us to the root of the material. Quite literally. Experiments with food waste, tumeric, pomegranate, hibiscus flowers or roots are proposing a terrestrial palette of earthy colors for the material. Faded and subtly graded colorways propose a fresh and appealing momentum and help denim develop points of differenciation and uniqueness. But nature is reaching beyond the components of denim for AW 23/24 and becoming a visual that informs design. Splashed mud effects create a freckled aesthetics, which combines cooler blues with warm and irregular browns. Uneven colorings and bleaching reveal those earthy tones and propose a  rougher look with a sense of patina. Other rounded and organic inspiration from botanics is integrating a delicate and abstract layer that feels new to the category.

Belong & Beloved.  The ethics that are embedded in modern practices surrounding denim enhance the desire for more local and community inspired themes. Fusing the kid core and cabin trend, a new set of designs is building on joyful mending and creativity for less naive and more grounded winter denims. While patchwork styles remains in rougher and untouched interpretations, the geometric and juxtaposed element of design is taken one step further: Well balance complementary color combinations create visual impact, while denim and non-denim combos are enhancing the clarity of the jean material and simultaneously propose new options for volumes for classic denim products. Joyful florals offer freshness in the cold season, while face patterns evoke an idea of community and identity. For the next season, this communal joy trend is diving into the archives to experiment and preserve ancient mending techniques for stunning visual effects.

Indulgently Pure. Innovative handles, pure undid styles and subtle heritage prints are enhancing denim with a luxe focus for AW 23/24. Truly sophisticated, sportswear qualities and subtle strech are eroding the rigid work-wear appeal of jeans for crisper yet more comfortable styles. Lyocell blends or modal can create a lustrous finishing for sleeker appearances  and enhance the drape of larger fits. A wintery warmth is informing more chic denim finishes, including flocking, corduroy or velvety treatments. These materials are appealing and soothing to the touch and invite tactile indulgence. Sometimes only the second glance will reveal the denim character and appeal to another sense, our visual perception as well. As prickled and fuzzy aspects are introducing even more soft touch options, tangled yarns remind us of fake fur to evoke a more icy and cocooning feel.

FW23 Investment Styles

The fall of the skinny fit. As seen in the graphs above, jeans are experiencing a renaissance now. Since everything in fashion is cyclical, a distinct change of fit and style is beginning to move the jeans away from the skinny, high-waist style of the last decade. Not only supported by Livetrend’s insights, market research firm NPD Group found sales for the skinny jeans fell behind straight leg jeans in 2021. Skinny jeans are far from dead though — still accounting for 30 percent of sales. More casual and wide straight and carrot shapes have taken the pole position on the market now, while even more loose fits are runner-up behind overrun skinny styles. Similarly, the high waist is still the most represented waistline, yet it shows a steady decrease within collection assortments. On a smaller scale, however, lower waists are increasing at faster pace than before.

FW23 Fashion Styles