Spring Summer 21 Global Analysis

Global Assortment

Let's analyze Spring Summer 2021 collections in details, comparing Ba&sh, Maje, Pinko, Patrizia Pepe and Liujo. These brands have delivered slightly less than 1 000 skus on average, of which 36% is represented by accessories. Liujo is the brand with more refcos (1652 online today), followed by Pinko (1078 refcos online today). Liujo is also the brand with more accessories, representing 47% of the global offer.

RTW Segmentation

Tops are on the top of product range, representing globally 28% of product range, they are divided in our categorization in t-shirts at 12% , shirt & blouses at 8% and tops at 8%. Finally dresses are back on the top of rtw assortment, representing 20% of the product range. Short dresses are leading the trend with 43%, then long ones are at 24%. About skirts, short hems are the most represented (37%), but midi length is more fashionable for skirts, taking 27% of skirt range. Trousers are at 16% of the assortment, where shorts account for 24% and joggings are still 7,5%.

Accessories Segmentation

Bags are 27% of the global accessory offer, followed by footwear at 24% and bijoux 14% Small leather goods are at 7%. The rest of Accessories are including belts, scarfs, clocks, eyewear, gloves and hats.

Global Colour Palette

To analyse properly colour range, let's divide commercial tones from fashion colours. Then let's talk about ready-to-wear palette where black is predominant taking 34% of the colour range. Whites and neutrals are 30%, navy blues 5% and greys are 4%. So classic colours represent 73% of global colour range, underlining that reassuring colours are leading the retail trend for SS21.

About fashion hues, as predicted light blue and vivid green are the hottest tones of the season. Baby blue is reaching 10% of the fashion colour palette. Vivid green at 9%, gains 2pts from last year, meanwhile greens are increasing 3 points. Red is loosing 7 points and pink 6 pts from SS20. Light purple is at 6% of fashion colour range and it's gaining 2 points from last year. Metallics are included in the top 10 fashion colour of the season and gold is leading the way. Browns and khakis have been interesting commercial colours too for SS21. Brown is gaining 2 points percentage reaching 7% of the range. Khaki is globally at 5%. Yellow this season is at 8% and fuchsia at 3%, loosing 1 percentage point.

About bags colour palette, a very important accessory for these brands, is interesting to notice that brown colours are gaining positions over the range and they are up to 7 points this summer compared to same period last year. Pinks are up to 5 pts, meanwhile yellows are down to 6 points.

RTW Fashion Colour Range

Bags Fashion Colour Range

Fabrics & Composition

The sustainable mindset is influencing fabric range, pushing natural fibres at 61% of material composition. Vegetal fibres are gaining 2 points from last year and man-made fibres are taking 23% of global fabric range. Synthetics are still at 30%, and few of them are made from recycled sources. Anyway, French brands are leader in sustainability, compared to Italian brands, proving that the French customer is more aware on these subjects.

Knit and stretchy fabrics are on top of fabric range, testifying to the fact that comfort is now one of the key factors of nowadays collections. On the other hand, we see femininity resurgent in flowing, sheer and shiny fabrics.
Embellishment are still important as embroidery (9%) and visual effect are not just on prints, but on textures and on jacquards (4%).

Top RTW Prints & Patterns

Considering prints, as usual florals are certainly the most representative and commercial pattern of the season. Stripes at the second place are taking 11% of global range but they are half the percentage of flower motives. Animalier at forth position is mainly coming from Liujo collection, testifying that Italian customer is more sensitive to this pattern.

Graphic patterns are more visible this full summer season, taking 6% of global range. They are very little represented in the Liujo assortment, that is showing more stripes, meanwhile globally stripy patterns decrease 3 points from last summer.
Jungle and tropical prints are a typical commercial print for full summer. It cannot really be define as a trend for SS21, due to his low visibility on Instagram, but it is well represented by those brands (7% of print range).

Tie&dye is presented in many different ways, even if in small quantities. It surely adds a young and fashionable touch to SS21 collections. Here, LiuJo differs from its competitors by not including the motif in its print assortment.
About screen printing, many messages on t-shirts talking about new femininity, girl empowerment and social values.

Price Architecture

Price segmentation shows that globally Liujo is positioning with a very competitive price strategy in the premium market. Average original price (that means excluding sales and promotions) is 139€ for the Liujo collection at the beginning of July, while Ba&sh and Maje are at 193€, Patrizia Pepe at 204€ and Pinko at 213€. Nearly 300 products are between 50 and 100 € for Liujo, while 450 items are between 100 and 150 € and slightly more than 400 are between 150 and 200 €. About Italian competitor, the analysis reveals that the strategies are similar. Most of the products are between 150 and 200€, but Pinko stretches the offer more towards trendy products up to 250€, while Patrizia Pepe in that range remains more cautious in quantity. The maximum prices for these two brands are close to 700 euros, while Liujo is rather on 600€.

Average Prices

Analysing these specific brands, it is interesting to highlight average prices by category and compare them to last year. The pricing strategy is quite stable except for outerwear price range that is gaining 15% and knitwear 8,5%. About dresses, it is interesting to notice that French brands have a more compact price strategy, meanwhile the Italians have a more stretched range with higher maximum prices. In fact, eveningwear and occasion wear are more represented in these collections. On the other hand, Liujo has the most interesting entry price for this category.

Bag Pricing Strategy

Talking about bags, a very important product for brands as Pinko and Liujo, it is important to notice that the pricing strategy differs between brands. Meanwhile the global average price of those brands is 196€, Liujo keeps his entry-price strategy, with the lower medium price (128€). Ba&sh has the highest average price of 286€, then Pinko at 264€, Patrizia Pepe 244€ and Maje 211€. About maximum price, it is Pinko to have the most expensive product, even the entry price of this brand is largely the highest (155€). Ba&sh is the latest brand to have introduced the bags, with the new iconic Teddy bag line, made of 57 products.

Details Analysis

As we use to heard, we've trained our cutting-edge technology to recognize the details as well, so we can analyze which ones are most relevant to SS21. High waist is still quantitatively speaking a performing trend in retail, even if the most trendy pieces are turning low-rise. Romantic ruffles and gatherings are on top of style details, designing feminine and dreamy silhouettes, testifying the desire to dress up again. Cropped styles have gained visibility, from top and pants to jacket, it is a must have this summer. Slits are also increasing compared to last year, on dresses, skirts and pants. Fringes are another trendy element, giving movement to garment and accessories. Knots and bows are safe detail for summer dresses and top, while sporty details as drawstring and elastic waist are a reminder of the athleisure appeal. Visual effects as draping and pleats are rising, as asymmetrical hems.

About trims trends, rhinestones are leading the way, proving that the nightlife and the desire to shine is back. Patches are giving these new taste for upcycling and sentiment for responsible fashion. Hooks are testifying the outdoor influence that is rising and it announced for FW21.

The data you need to master your market

This analysis is done by collecting data on the e-commerce websites of Ba&sh, Liu-Jo, Maje, Patrizia Pepe and Pinko on the Italian market, during the first week of July 2021 .
Finally dresses are back for Summer 2021, meanwhile tops and pants were leading the product range for spring. To notice about colours: browns and yellows are slightly growing in the last two months. Blue, Pink and Green are leading the way this season and as predicted by Livetrend, light blue is quantitively the hottest color of ready-to-wear full summer season. Warm colors as browns, pinks and reds are more represented for the accessories and especially the bags. About composition, the effort done on natural fibres compared to synthetic is clear. Natural and artificial fibres are average 60% of the assortment. Consider these differences and shifts to adapt your SS22 range plan.

Date:

15 July 2021