Exposed logos, distinctive signs of a brand, identifiable at first sight. More complexes therefore for this trend whose advent in the 80s and 90s through labels like Guess or Versace had marked the beginning of the bling-bling era. Since then, the minimalist wave, carried by a handful of so-called “more cerebral” claws and creators, had declared this trend to be of bad taste. Today, young designers and luxury brands are reinventing these contemporary emblems, redesigning them, renewing them or updating them during a collab. This year, what is interesting is that the logos are no longer systematically displayed in large letters on T-shirts or accessories as they were for a long time, they become textures, all-over prints. Young labels with a streetwear identity such as Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, the Vetements collective, Alexander Wang, the past seasons have started to revive the trend. Far from the ostentation of the 80s, it is a real creative work that has assimilated the reign of minimalism into fashion. Balençiaga makes it a very contemporary example. We can make a double reading: a strategy to make oneself known and recognized and therefore promote one’s label, but also the desire to have fun with the bling codes of the key brands of the 80’s. Drawing your logo makes it possible to rally a tribe, a group, to adhere to a style, it is experienced as an insider’s trick. It is obviously the desire to show a sign of recognition. The Chinese market has also greatly influenced the return of the logo, by being a market where you pay for the brand and want it to be seen.
27 August 2019