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FW21: Tailoring Highlights

Office and Party Pieces

With approaching office hours, that will bring a sense of normality back after lockdowns, office styles and tailored looks are recommencing to gain importance again. We are facing a period of change and to create change people need to feel empowered. Historically, tailored garments have proven to posses confidence-boosting and energizing qualities, which will be needed when returning to the work-place. At the same time, the tradition of tailoring embeds long-lasting and reassuring properties, and bring a sense of comfort to anxious consumers.

The Casual Tailoring Silhouette has become a favorite over the pandemic and remains one of the leading trends gaining 11% from last winter season. Alongside, new sleek and crisp Slimline Silhouettes, increasing 17%, are emerging as bolder, more sexy and even futuristic element are driven by the season’s new macro trends. The new feminism also introduced a focus on Power Suit Silhouettes, highlighting the shoulders with bold volumes and unexpected details. Statement shoulder on tailoring had high visibility, but is slightly decreasing from FW20 runways. Since the top-half of the body has become the focal point of the body over the course of the pandemic, with zoom-calls and social media, the exaggeration of the shoulder pushes the boundaries of this momentum.

While Preppy Styles (+2%) have been around for some seasons now, the slightly nostalgic, yet elegant dressiness seems even more relevant regarding current party-ready spirits. A New Wave Minimalism, fueled by more minimalistic and sincere consumer mindsets is setting a trend as well. Designers favor monochromatic styles and creative pattern making to elevate the toned-down, no-fuzz looks. The big FW21 black and white trend links to this style direction. For FW21, there is another mannish component, however, reworked with charm: the Interplay of Masculine and Feminine styles. More androgynous interpretations of designers propose a sophisticated look, while gender-blender styles are taking elements out of both wardrobes and balance them within one look. Both ways of interpretation are effective in translating the concepts of power, gender-equality and embrace the uniformal qualities of tailored styles.

While most trends in tailoring depend on the adaption of details along the aesthetics of the zeitgeist, Livetrend Data has been able to extract specific key-pieces for FW21 as well. Oversized had still big visibility and a growth index of 6% YoY;  meanwhile Cropped Blazers had an astonishing growth of 62% from last winter. So oversized and cropped blazer continue to remain a must have of the season. New leisure-office wear demands for Blazer Alternatives, as shakets (+49%). Worn in a set, new core items include shirts, blousons or outerwear-driven garments to replace the classic tailored jacket. Those blazer alternatives feel fresh and relevant for a post-pandemic world. Focusing on tomorrow as well are Reconstructed Jackets. This is certainly an edgy trend, but with growing perspective (+5% YoY). Similarly to the idea of re-building the world, re-purposed and re-structured designs are building up a garment from the ground. In doing so, they offer potential for re-purposing deadstock and embracing sustainable and ethical macro values.

Key Silhouettes

213

Casual Tailoring

+11%
102

Sleek Slimline

+17%
335

Power Suits

-9%
149

Skirt Suit Set

-38%

Key Styles

50

Preppy Tailoring

+2%
165

Masculine/Feminine Play

+6%
101

New Minimal

-21%

Must-Have Pieces

201

The Cropped Blazer

+62%
85

Blazer Alternatives

+49%
312

The Oversized Blazer

+18%
63

The Vest

+4%
89

Reconstructed

+5%

How does tailoring evolves into an uncertain tomorrow?

Livetrend Technology has detected the key tailoring pieces for FW21 according to runway data. On the top left you can find the visibility of the trend, on bottom left the index of growth YoY and on the bottom right the Livetrend Stamp shows you the trend type and the risk associated to it. Find the explanation of the stamp in the chart on the right.

Tailoring assortment is infused by casual style and divided between Oversized Suits, that represents 18% of this category assortment and Power Suits, that are 19% of this product family. These styles seems to go with a genderless attitude that is expressed by masculine/femminine tailoring (9% of product mix). Cropped Blazers are coming next, occupying the 11% of the category plan and it is an announced big trend of the season with a significant magnitude. Skirt Suit is loosing visibility from last winter, when it was a major trend, but it has still big potential because it wasn’t commercially exploited because of covid-19. The style has evolved from ladylike to a more youthful, preppy and school-girl approach.