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FW20 Runway : Hot Topics

Historical Remix

Never like this winter nostalgia for the past has come to contaminate contemporary lines. Already Livetrend had identified clear historical references (see the clerical) in haute couture, and today this forecast is confirmed by ready-to-wear. Gucci has presented silhouettes with basket dresses, Alexander Mc Queen not only refers to shapes but also to historical motifs. Moschino shows a modern-day Marie Antoinette and Richard Quinn has created crinoline shapes for his Moncler collection. This desire for new, exaggerated volumes, inspired by the past, can even influence the king of streetwear, Vigil Abloh, who mixes anoraks with crinolines, with an unexpected effect. But it was Nicholas Guesquière for Louis Vuitton, who certainly knew how to make the right remix of history, culture and modernity to create inventive pieces and silhouettes.

Boudoir

The lingerie spirit continues to be in vogue even in the winter of 2020. Voile and transparent fabrics, bodies, bustier, bras, create a remixed boudoir atmosphere. Very sexy at Saint Laurent juxtaposed to vynil and posh worn with wool jackets. Very feminine at Dolce & Gabbana, worn under heavy knitwear or see-through as at Olivier Theyskens, Dior, Valentino e Fendi. Bustiers appear on display or half-hidden in the structure of dresses and coats.

Bourgeoisie

An ode to the real client of prêt-à-porter? Rich, snobby, gorgeous, feminine, a little mysterious: the real lady. An icon that never ceases to inspire designers. The bourgeoisie with style wears tight coats, shawl necklines, skirt suit and Bermuda shorts. She loves pencil skirts, blouses with bow, furs and big hats. A style that seduces with sophistication and that is renewed thanks to Burberry, Fendi, Celine, Altuzarra, JW Anderson, Lanvin, just to name a few.

New Teenagers

A youthful spirit, a bit of a schoolgirl, rather intellectual, is going to create a microtrend for the winter. Thanks to the Dior fashion show, in which Maria Grazia, with an autobiographical touch, represented herself in her youthful years, interest in this new teenager has opened up. Activist and committed, she mixes short skirts and shorts with college jackets, rugby stripes and tartans. She doesn’t deny a few vintage pieces taken from her mother’s or grandmother’s closet, and we can imagine a few pieces rented or bought on depop. Hats, caps, glasses and tie are the accessories worn by this girl who has walked the catwalks of Dior, Paul&Joe, Coach, Gucci, Versace and Thom Brown, to name but a few of the brands shown in the pictures.

Tailoring

For several seasons the suit has entered the sphere of collection must-haves. From luxury to mass-market, the suit has rejuvenated. It has been coloured in pastel shades then pop; it has become oversized and a bit masculine, as in these fashion shows. Grey, coloured, pinstripes, the suit becomes Armani style, with slouchy pants as Ferretti fashion show style, with eighties shoulder by Balmain or exaggerated by Balenciaga. This season is the great return of the skirt suit. The classic pencil skirt is the perfect companion for short and fitted jackets or wider jackets as at Prada. For the pantsuit, on the other hand, the wide pants predominate, which remains one of the most popular garments of the FW20 season.

The Concepts behind FW20 Fashion Shows

From the macro-trend of tailoring and ladylike, now installed for several seasons, these FW20 shows have brought us new insights into the present. There are those who project themselves into a difficult future with strong, bulky, unnaturally shaped silhouettes like Balenciaga and Rick Owens. There are those who project themselves into the past, like Gucci and McQueen. There are those who can mix it with a touch of science fiction to the future like Louis Vuitton or Off-white, where crinolines are worn with biker details or colorful windbreakers.
The seventies, eighties and nineties are still present, but the novelty of this season is to go dig even further back, in the history of costume, more than in the history of fashion.

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Date:
15 March 2020
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