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SS19 Brand Analysis & Comparison

4 Brands

Sandro, Claudie Pierlot, The Kooples, IRO

Here are four of the best brands in the premium market analyzed and compared to better understand what is happening in the accessible luxury market. Sandro and Maje of the SMCP Group are interesting to compare to visualize their similarities and understand their differences. The DNA of the brands is well respected and this is evident in the assortments of collections and colours. The third brand is The Kooples, which continues its international expansion, has reviewed its sizes, opened up to more fantasies and prints. The fourth is IRO. Founded in 2005, the brand represents the refinement of the Parisian spirit with its refined style enriched with rock and glamour touches. Four typically Parisian brands that shape the premium market in France and abroad. Here is the analysis of their collections including everything on sale (summer 19 and pre-fall 19) during the private sales of the last month.

Collection Segmentation

The ready-to-wear/accessories segmentation underlines the importance that the accessory has for a premium brand. Following the model of luxury brands, the accessory can become a very profitable part of the collection. Quality and design are very important, in genuine leather, often the pieces are made in Italy as for luxury. The well-made accessory today is an essential element to establish the prestige of an accessible luxury brand. The brand that develops less accessories is IRO with only 12% of accessories on the global collection. Specialist in leather in the rtw, he succeeds well in the footwear but has not yet found his It-bag. Claudie Pierlot has 15% of accessories, with a good distribution between shoes, bags and small accessories. The rtw therefore represents 85% of its collection. For Sandro the accessories are at 25%. Rapidly expanding in recent seasons, this family offers a good balance between categories. It is important to mention that Sandro's sneakers represent 52% of the footwear and have been the product with the highest growth. The Kooples collection is composed of 70% rtw and 30% accessories. This brand has successfully developed the bags in collaboration with influencers and models. The first with Emily Ratajkowski in September 2017. The Kooples has launched a veritable line of leather goods to consolidate its status as an accessible luxury brand. The success of the bags has increased the importance of accessories in the collection over the past two years.

Collection Assortment

It is interesting to compare the assortments of these four successful brands, icons of French ready-to-wear. Dresses, as is evident for a female brand, are the most important category in the collection. Clearly predominant among Sandro and Claudie Pierlot, the dresses fall to 16% for IRO and 12% for The Kooples. The latter has slightly more pants (13%) on offer at this time of year. Globally, t-shirts are the most important category after dresses. But let's look at the differences: at Sandro it's the tops that come second with 8%, while at Claudie it's the pants (10%). For IRO and the Kooples the t-shirts are at 15% and 12%. Pants are an important category for womenswear on the French market and represent on average 10%. Tops are therefore another important category, here on average at 9%. For accessories, Sandro and Claudie Pierlot have the categories almost equally divided. The IRO accessories assortment, on the other hand, is mainly made up of shoes and the Kooples assortment is mainly made up of bags.

R-T-W Price Architecture

The analysis of average prices reveals that IRO is the most expensive brand and the Kooples the brand with more discount over the period. The lowest entry price is at Sandro for a top at 35€ and the highest is for the leather jacket at IRO. At Sandro, apart from jackets and outerwear, nothing exceeds 400€. Except for leather trousers, jackets and coats, at Claudie Pierlot also the prices are under 400€. At the Kooples, dresses can reach €661.5, the most expensive price in the collection, ahead of coats, jackets and knitwear. IRO is the brand with the highest prices, exceeding 1000€ for jackets, dresses, suits and outerwear. The maximum price of the pants is just below 995€.

Dresses Price Structure

We have detected the price structure of the dresses of the four brands. IRO has the highest price for the category but it is Sandro who has the most expensive entrance price at 165€. The average price at Claudie Pierlot, Sandro and the Kooples is 245.6€. The price you would expect for a dress from a brand in the premium segment. For Iro the price rises to €373, which is compatible with the brand's entire price structure, which is positioned at a higher level.

Accessories Price Structure

The entry price for the accessories of these four brands is between 25 and 40€. The maximum price at Sandro is 425€ for bags and shoes. Cheaper Claudie Pierlot with a maximum price of 345€ for a bag. 498€ is the most expensive price for the Kooples for accessories and more precisely for a bag. For IRO the higher price for accessories is for shoe at 695€. So the average price remains below 200€ for accessories at Sandro and Claudie Pierlot and rises to 300€ for the Kooples and IRO.

Collection Colour Segmentation

Black is always black, undeniable, he wins almost 30% of the collection. Brands with a very rock soul like the Kooples and IRO even made it to a summer collection at 46%. While navy blues remain a bcbg color and are not very present in brands with a pronounced rock dna. The beiges, very important this season, are between 16% and 20%, with the exception of the Kooples collection, where they represent only 5%. Sandro presents many different colours in his collection, to cover almost the whole palette, without taking a real stand. Claudie Pierlot has an strong base of commercial colours. As a trendy colour, the brand pointed to lilac, but did not follow the trend of yellows and earth tones at all. IRO has been working on warm and feminine tones this season, to mix with black and neutral tones of beige and grey. Pink, lilac, red, coral give life to beautiful plain colours as well as tachist or floral prints in the spirit of the maison. The Kooples has a wide range of colours, even if black prevails over almost half of the collection. Reds, at 10%, are a colour that is cherished by the brand, but it is also a strong commercial asset. There is no shortage of greens, roses and yellows, but what really marked this season was the multitude of prints.

Ask for Tailored Analysis

This analysis is done by collecting data on the French e-commerce sites of the four brands at the end of May. The raw data is checked a first time before analysis and checked a second time after analysis, to ensure reliable and relevant data. Ask for tailored analysis of your direct competitors or compared analysis with your brand collection at hello@livetrend.co

26 June 2019