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Premium Market Pre-Collection Concepts

An array of collections is moving us forward!

What are the trend themes to be influencing the Premium A/W 21 market?

As Summer Sales are coming to an end, the Pre-Collections and Early Drop releases of AW21 are released and begin to hint towards the next seasons. In this report, we have analyzed the latest collections of the European Premium Market. As an add-on to the benchmark analysis, this report dives into the concepts and themes, which were favored across the premium brands. These themes will give you an overview of design aesthetics and styles that are going to hit the upper segment of the fashion industry at the end of this year.

Below, you will find six major A/W21 trend themes. Several concepts, such as the nod to the 70s or an increased interest in feminine desirability, as well as retro and casual college stories, have already been announced by Livetrend prior to current collection previews. Further themes, like desert and western themed topics, rebellious subculture influences and a taste for elevated classics have been part of our A/W Trend Stories forecasts and now balance commercial potentials with fashionable and daring designs. Now, the need to be brave empowers the premium market with fresh ideas and is pivoting us towards a post-pandemic tomorrow with  a desire to spark novelty, ease and inspiration.  

Highlight Trend Concepts

Desert Dreamer

Credits: Zadig&Voltaire, Sézane, BA&SH, IRO, Claudie Pierlot / Credits: Claudie Pierlot, Claudie Pierlot, BA&SH, PINKO, Twinset

The Early AW21 drops have shown a distinct interest in western and desert themes. With a wild and liberated mood, new collections are telling stories about nomads and free-spirited travelers. This trend comes along the current re-opening of borders and pandemic-driven new digital nomad lifestyles. New forms of travel have ignited peoples’ drive to explore and to discover. This theme has consumers escape into the Wild West and channel their inner country side persona. Simultaneously, the on-going outdoors boom is certainly driving this trend and manifests its commercial potential. Core products include denim styles, cowboy boots, high waisted and tapered jeans, shackets and belted outerwear. For materials and colors, suede, cotton and denim are taking the lead. Color-wise, a natural palette of rather rustic and pigmented color hues ignites a warm and earthy spirit. Staples are updated via topstitched detailing, fringes, rougher finishings and metal studs.

College Cool

Credits: Make, The Kooples, Zadig & Voltaire, BA&SH, Sézane / Credits: BA&SH, Twinset, Sandro, Claudie Pierrot, Maje

The Trend for casual college-inspired looks is continuing to be a main theme within current A/W 21 Pre-Collections. The trend has emerged over the past seasons and was exploited in past winter collections as well. As an update for the season, the academic look is joined by ideas of more premium and sophisticated designs. Vests, cardigans and tailoring looks are turning into hybrid styles that balance a sense of preppiness with casual and easy silhouettes. In combination with leisure and activewear pieces, blazers are now a staple for everyday looks. Baseball caps and varsity graphics are continuing to aim for a collegiate look and enhance the laid-back feel of such trending styles. 

A Rebellious Notion

Credits: BA&SH, Patrizia Pepe, BA&SH, Zadig & Voltaire, Twinset / Credits: Zadig&Voltaire, IRO, Maje, Twinset, Zadig & Voltaire

The frustration with the current health crisis and its extensive impact on private life, combined with the awaiting recession, are causing consumers to turn towards subcultural movements. Subversive interests are aspiring to create change and to protest against the mainstream. The rebellious edge of current goth, rock and grunge inspired themes is channeling this revolting notion and has clients create a polarizing buzz. The strive for attention and the display of opposing thought, that stems from a mental and physical sensation of fatigue is now counteracted with activism. Referencing distinctly iconic looks suggests the desire to look towards the past and at how our predecessors have proven to face similar conflicts during their time. Key fabrics include leather and denim with rough or shiny finishings. Must-haves are composed by leather and denim jackets, transparent skirts, men’s shirts and reworked tailoring. Chain elements are a detail of choice to support the more bold look.

Woodstock Vibing

Credits: BA&SH, Twinset, Sézane, Sandro, Twinset / Credits: Sézane, Séssun, Twinset, Sandro, BA&SH

The taste for the 70s has developed continuously over the past seasons. The current wave of optimism and the feeling of liberation is resonating a distinctly liberated and bohemian vibe, which we associate with Woodstock and the hippie period. Folk motifs and crafted crochet finishings, as well as subtly pigment color palattes create a washed-out feel and are sparking a vintage mood. Current A/W 21 drops with this thematic include key staples such as flared pants, clog shoes, loose blouses and maxi-dresses. Corduroy pants and psychedelic print designs are also a part of this theme. The look seems equally as light as it seems familiar and cozy. The Pre-collections create a design aesthetic that merges smoothly from summer into fall periods and proposes an iconic look for the Indian summer. 

Seduction on Display

Credits: The Couples, Patricia Pepe, Zadig & Voltaire, IRO / Credits: Zadig&Voltaire, Patrizia Pepe, BA&SH, Patrizia Pepe, Zadig & Voltaire

Empowered and embraced femininity has become an increasingly important influence on fashion over the past seasons. A/W 21 Pre-Collections are channeling this female influence and create collections with distinctly seducing features. Displaying and understanding feminine bodies through a new understanding of sensuality and skin is impacting the core design themes within the premium market. This overarching design theme embraces black and strong reds as the top colors to resonate bold womanhood. Cut-out and drape elements are also adding a sense of seduction and desirability to collections. This theme is especially relevant for evening-wear looks. Core pieces include mini-dresses, silky blouses and slip skirt or dress styles, body-con silhouettes and one-piece garments that feel elegant yet fierce.

Elevated Essentials

Credits: Claudie Pierlot, Patrizia Pepe, Patrizia Pepe, Patrizia Pepe, IRO / Credits: Patrizia Pepe, BA&SH, The Kooples, Sandro, Maje

The financial impact of the current health crisis has surfaced a recession-driven desire for more minimal and sophisticated design. Consumers are seeking for products that will outlive mere trends and that show versatility within their adaptability to multiple occasions. Embracing more normal lifestyles, the return to the office and to commute, the return of after-work events and social gatherings, have resulted in a large number of elevated essential products across Pre-Collections. With form and function at the core, designs have a minimal look, however resonate a sense of ease, comfort and coziness. Classical checks, tailoring fabrics and jerseys are balanced with super-soft knits and subtly textured fabric qualities. Hybrid pieces, that bridge tailored and homewear styles are composing  the base for those looks and offer a more designed and sophisticated outlook for renown staple and core styles.

Premium brands are going bolder.

The early A/W 21 drops are embracing the major shifts that impacted the industry over the past year. Inspired by the runways, premium brands have achieved to commercialize important trend directions like the 70s, the return of the bohemian, a rise of desire and a taste for rebellion. Take a look at how those brands achieved to twist the inspirational ideas into commercially relevant stories. Check the benchmarking report for all the data related to these collections.

5 August 2021